unnamed

[ Designer ] Hedi Slimane

Hedi Slimane

I knew Hedi Slimane from Saint Laurent. I remember seeing his men’s clothing that surprised me a lot at that time, for his men’s clothing were all worn by super thin male models. I remember seeing his men’s clothing that surprised me a lot at that time, for his men’s clothing were all worn by super thin male models. 

Actually, I don’t think a men of normal size that can wear his clothes, which I am very impressed by his works. Especially you can also see these works full of his style since he has become Celine’s designer.

Runway – Celine FW Ready to Wear 2020-21

我是在 Saint Laurent 知道 Hedi Slimane 這位設計師的。我記得那段時間看到他的男裝作品,讓我有點吃驚,因為他的男裝都是找超瘦的男模來穿的,那時候我想,一般的男生到底有誰可以穿他的衣服啊。從此我就對這位設計師印象深刻了。尤其是他現在成為了Celine的設計師後,在Celine的秀上,也可以看到這些充滿他風格的作品。

Hedi Slimane was born in Paris on July 5, 1968. He has lived in Switzerland for several years, but his favorite city is Berlin, Germany. He said “Berlin is an open space for me. I don’t like to need to do anything while here.”

White, black and gray, that the simple three colors can be best represent him, as if watching a black and white movie; however the corner of Berlin and plus a little bit red is a favorite color of Hedi Slimane, which is the basis of his design.

Hedi Slimane可謂時裝界的傳奇人物之ㄧ,在他的出現以前,男裝從未和時尚相提並論。Hedi Slimane 於1968年7月5日出生在巴黎,曾經住過瑞士幾年,但他最喜歡的城市是德國的柏林, 他說:“柏林對我來說是個開放空間。在這裡,我不需要做任何事情。”

黑灰白,簡單的三種顏色,最能代表他,彷彿是在看黑白電影,而Berlin的街角,再加一點紅,一個Hedi Slimane最喜歡的顏色,就是他設計的根本。

Rock

Hedi Slimane is a well-known rock fan. Since he worked for Dior, Hedi Slimane has 200% mastery of everything in the show. As long as you has followed any of his shows, you will find the selection of his music, that all shows is specially he invited musicians to make special productions, such as 2001 Dior Homme’s Benjamin Diamond, and he celebrated the opening of the Dior Homme store on 57th Street in New York in 2004 that he personally planned and arranged an alternative and rebellious rock Fashion parties, that he invited the New York guitar band Sonic Youth as the main guest, and dancers interspersed with performances, etc, which as you can see how he love rock, he also has incorporated rock into his works.

Hedi Slimane 本身個知名的搖滾樂迷,自 Dior 時期開始,Hedi Slimane 便對他秀場中的一切有著 200% 的掌握,只要曾追蹤過他任何一場秀,從選樂中便會發現,所有秀場的音樂幾乎都是他專程邀請音樂人特別製作,像是:2001 Dior Homme 的Benjamin Diamond ,還有他在2004年慶祝紐約57街的Dior Homme store開幕時,親自策劃安排一個充滿另類叛逆色彩的搖滾時尚派對,邀請紐約噪音吉他樂隊Sonic Youth最為主要演出來賓,並穿插著表演的舞者等等,都能看到他對搖滾的熱愛,甚至他也將搖滾融入在他的作品裡。

The image of “The Thin White Duke” created by David Bowie in the 1970s, his slim figure and the gender inconsistency, that all directly affected Hedi Slimane. In the beginning of 2016, shortly after Bowie pass away, Hedi published a moving text of mourning, which you can see how Bowie’s music influence his designs.

“I was lying in bed and looking at his album cover that Bowie was wearing a pink-blue suit designed by Freddie Burretti. The pale figure, the heroic hair and unsure whether he was a man or a woman. But I don’t care, I’m the same and I only know that Bowie will always protect me from July 5, 1975. ”

David Bowie 在1970年代創作的“瘦白公爵”形象,苗條的身材和性别不一,直接影響了Hedi Slimane。 在2016年初,鲍伊去世后不久,Hedi 還發表了感人的文字悼念他,從這裡你就可以看到鲍伊的音乐如何影響他的設計。

「我躺在床上看著他的專輯封面,Bowie 穿著 Freddie Burretti 設計的粉藍色西裝。蒼白的身影,英姿的電髮,有點不太確定他是男孩還是女孩,但也不在乎,反正我也一樣。我只知道從1975年7月5日這一天起,Bowie 將會永遠保護我」

photography

Photography is another of his specialties, and he has held several photo exhibitions. In fact, Hedi has never want to be a fashion designer since he was young and his biggest wish is to become a reporter.

”I started at 11 with black-and-white photography. It has always been a natural and defining part of my life, a personal, intimate process. I am deeply attached to each of the characters I depict, and to my photography archive.”

攝影是他另一專長,曾多次開過攝影展。其實Hedi從小的志願中,從未出現服裝設計師,最大的心願反而是成為記者。

「我從11歲開始從事黑白攝影。 這一直是我生活中自然而定義的一部分,是個人的,親密的過程。 我對我所描繪的每個角色和攝影檔案都深感興趣。」

Lady Gaga – The Fame Monster (by Hedi Slimane)

childhood

He turned childhood bullying into a lasting impact.

Turns out that Hedi’s signature skinny silhouette stems from the bullying and homophobia he experienced as a teen: “Many in high school, or in my family, were attempting to make me feel I was half a man because I was lean,”

He used to eat a lot of things to gain weight and change his image, but it had no effect, which he turned this experience into a nutrient for design, and re-constructed thinness into an attractive beauty that opened his fashion path of paper men.

“I would turn to my music heroes, and this was comforting. They looked the same and I wanted to do everything to be like them, and not hide myself in baggy clothes to avoid negative comments.”

他把童年欺凌變成了一種持久的影響

Hedi的標誌性瘦的身型,讓他在十幾歲時經歷了霸凌:“許多高中生或家庭中的人都試圖讓我覺得自己半個男人,因為我太瘦了。”

他過去常吃很多東西以增加體重和改變自己的形象,但沒有效果,於是他將這種經歷轉變為設計的營養,並將纖細重新構造為誘人的美感,從而打開了紙人的時尚之路。 。

“我求助於音樂英雄,這令人感到安慰。他們看上去一樣,我想盡一切努力像他們一樣,不要把自己藏在寬鬆的衣服中以避免負面評論。”

fashion

Hedi ’s father is Tunisian and his mother is Italian, he was born and raised in Paris. His mother was a tailor. Actually he didn’t know what fashion is at the age of 16; however, he began to learn how to make clothes. Hedi has talented and also got an opportunity into the Jean-Jacques Picart company as an apprentice through professional clothing training, accidentally entered the circle by mistake. He had no idea of being a designer before.

Hedi 的父親是突尼斯人,母親是意大利人,他在巴黎長大。 他的母親是裁縫。 實際上,他16歲那年不知道是什麼時尚。 但是,他開始學習如何做衣服。只能說 Hedi很有才華,透過專業的服裝培訓獲得了進Jean-Jacques Picart公司當學徒的機會,就這樣無意間誤入了圈子。 其實他以前完全沒有做過設計師的想法。

Such like his second father on fashion.

Before Hedi being famous, Pierre Bergé who is Mr. Saint-Laurent’s long-term companion, regarded he as a genius. In 1996 he made him as a Yves Saint Laurent menswear designer. To Hedi, they are like fathers. In his first show for Dior Homme in 2001, Mr. Saint Laurent went to the scene to show his support. Hedi even said in an interview that he was willing to do anything for the two of them.

在 Hedi 出名之前,Mr. Saint-Laurent 的長期伴侶 PierreBergé 視他為天才。 1996年,他讓他成為Yves Saint Laurent男裝設計師。 對赫迪來說,他們就像父親。 Saint Laurent先生在2001年為Dior Homme舉辦的第一場演出中,到場表示支持。 赫迪甚至在接受采訪時說,他願意為他們兩個做任何事情。

Crazy for him

In July 2000, He transferred into Christian Dior to lead Dior Homme, swept the fashion men’s clothing with fashionable cuts, narrow slim lines and simple tones. Mens are crazy about it. Brad Pitt wore suits that made by Hedi when Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston got marry; In order to be able to put on Dior Homm’s clothes that Karl Lagerfeld tried his best to lose 40 kilograms weight.

2000年7月,他轉入Christian Dior 領導 Dior Homme,以時尚的剪裁,窄窄的線條和簡單的色調風靡男裝。 男士對此感到瘋狂。 布拉德·皮特(Brad Pitt)和珍妮弗·安妮斯頓(Jennifer Aniston)結婚時,布拉德·皮特(Brad Pitt)穿著赫迪(Hedi)製作的西裝。 為了穿上Dior Homm的衣服,Karl Lagerfeld盡了最大的努力來減輕40公斤的體重。

his design concept

Hedi Slimane’s design has a basic, that is the anti-traditional slim and full of gender ambiguous atmosphere with a bit of PUNK-ROCK style, which is a charm that modern young people pursue. He think that putting on a suit is not necessarily honest, and a little alienation in the office is the way of Hedi Slimane’s design to show his different.

Hedi Slimane的設計有一些基本條件,那就是反傳統的苗條和充滿性別歧義的氛圍,並帶有一點PUNK-ROCK的風格,這是現代年輕人追求的魅力。 他認為穿西裝並不一定要很忠厚老實,與辦公室裡有些疏離是Hedi Slimane的設計表現出與眾不同的方式。

Tags: No tags

Add a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *