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The secret of choosing a coat material

material of coat

Last time, I have shared how to find the right type for yourself, and now I gonna share with you how to choose the material of the coat.

5 classical types of coat for women.

To know what kind of coat suit for your body shaped.

“Material” is the most important point when I choose the coat, which it will affect the texture, shape and the warmth of the coat.

As long as you choose the great material, you can be warm in winter, even you only within a thin shirt. Also you won’t feel heavy when you wearing it. In the other hand, if you chose the bad one, it won’t have good looking, even the stereotype is nice.

​​繼上次跟大家分享了,如何找尋適合自己的版型,接下來要跟大家分享如何挑選「大衣的材質」

前兩篇文章:

5 classical types of coat for women.

To know what kind of coat suit for your body shaped.

​「材質」是我在挑大衣時最注重的點!,因為材質會影響整件大衣的質感、版型、保暖問題,就算版型在好,質料若是差,終究穿不出氣勢!

只要選對材質,以在台灣的天氣來說,裡面就算只穿一件薄上衣,也很oaky並不會太厚重

1. cashmere coat

When it talk about materials, my first choice must be cashmere coat. why it’s my first choice? Because cashmere is delicate, light, smooth, soft and warm which it relative on its price.

Like a pure cashmere coat from Erdos, if you encounter a discount season, you have to buy it without hesitate. Because the discounted price is around $300. Don’t mention the Italian luxury brands such as LORO PIANO.

There have one thing that you have to note when you choose the cashmere coat which is it content. The higher the proportion of cashmere in a coat is the better of quality also it’s more warmer. For sure, the price will be more higher. And I heard that it’s need to spend two months to complete the production of a cashmere coat!

All I can say is that a great coat can accompany you for a long time.

 

說到材質的話,我的首選一定是羊絨大衣,最愛的材質也是他,怎麼說羊絨是首選呢?因為羊絨材質具有細膩、輕盈、手感順滑、光澤柔和、保暖性好的優點,相對的他的單價就會比較高。像是鄂爾多斯的純羊絨大衣,若遇到打折季,打折下來的價位約在 8000、9000上下,當然還有更多品牌的價位,兩、三萬跑不掉,更不用提到 Loro Piana 等一些義大利奢華品牌了

選擇羊絨大衣,需要注意他的羊絨含量!一件大衣的羊絨比例越高質量越好,也就越保暖,當然價格也會相較貴一些!聽說真正製作一件羊絨大衣,到成品需要兩個月的時間才能完成!!!我只能說:一件好的大衣,真的可以陪伴你很久啊

If I am pick the coat for myself, I will choose a coat with about 50% cashmere. please note that the shape of making the coat with high cashmere content is not ideal.

Therefore, the coat with a high cashmere content will be very soft which relatively good self-cultivation effect will be better.

像我自己在挑的話,我都選擇羊絨成分佔 50% 左右的大衣

要注意一點是:羊絨含量高的大衣定型效果不是很理想,所以一般羊絨含量高的大衣做成廓型的會很軟,相對有修身效果的會比較好

Ways to identify cashmere coats:

1. the trademark

Cashmere coats are marked with cashmere content, if cashmere and wool are blended, the wool content is also indicated. If it is a blended product, it’s also be marked out. If not, be careful!

2. Touch

The cashmere is soft and smooth when you touch it, which if it’s rough, then definitely not the cashmere. Please note that after you touch it, there is a slippery feeling on your finger, it may be sprinkled with talcum powder! However, Cashmere is an animal protein, it will immediately restore flatness and is difficult to wrinkle which you can tug it in easy way, if it restore the original shape in time, it is surely a good cashmere coat

3. Weight

Cashmere is fine fluff cut from goats which the weight is light and thin; however, a classical of wool is the hair cut from the sheep. In addition to different sources, mainly because of their different fiber traits. (cashmere is finer.)

4. Gloss

Put the coat under the light, the real cashmere coat will be evenly colored, the hair is fine, and it’s a little shiny.

In addition, The density is also an important indicator to judge the quality of cashmere coats which If the light can not through it, means the density is enough!

5. Static electricity inspection

If there is no “beep” sound when you rub the cashmere coat with cotton clothes for about five minutes, means it is a real one. well, if there have sounds, then it is fake!

However, I personally that it is enough to check after checking the above five points. But in here I’m going to tell you in simply way if you want to check more, then there is still a way to double judge.

6. Burning

Cashmere contains a lot of protein which if burned, it smells like burnt feathers and the Ashes are broken by fingers. If not, it is a chemical fiber fabric!

 

1.商標

羊絨大衣上標有羊絨含量,如果將羊絨和羊毛混紡,也要註明羊毛含量。如果是混合產品,則也會被標記出來。如果沒有,請小心!

2.輕觸

觸摸時,羊絨柔軟而光滑;如果粗糙,則絕對不是羊絨。請注意,觸摸後,手指上會有滑膩的感覺,可能會撒上滑石粉!但是,羊絨是一種動物蛋白,可以立即恢復平整度,不易起皺,您可以輕鬆地拉動它,如果能及時恢復其原始形狀,那肯定是一件好羊絨大衣

3.重量

羊絨是從山羊身上切下來的細絨毛,重量輕薄。但是,經典的羊毛是從羊身上剪下來的頭髮。除了來源不同外,主要是因為它們的纖維特性不同。 (羊絨更好。)

4.光澤度

將大衣放在光線下,真正的羊絨大衣將被均勻著色,頭髮也很好,而且有點光澤。

另外,密度也是判斷羊絨大衣質量的重要指標,如果光線無法穿透,則表明密度足夠!

5.靜電檢查

如果在用棉布衣服摩擦羊絨大衣約5分鐘時沒有“嗶”聲,則表示它是真實的聲音。好吧,如果有聲音,那就是假貨!

但是,我個人認為在檢查了以上五點之後就可以檢查了。但是在這裡,我將以簡單的方式告訴您,如果您想檢查更多內容,那麼仍然可以通過雙重判斷。

6.燃燒

羊絨含有大量蛋白質,如果燃燒,會聞起來像羽毛一樣燃燒,灰燼會被手指折斷。如果不是,那是化纖織物!

2. the wool coat

Relative to cashmere coat, the wool coat has a rougher and is more cheaper which is the most common material of coat on the market.

Please, note it that the composition of wool should not be less than 50%, if it’s less than 50%, there is no warmth effect and also, In the dry autumn and winter, it will becomes an electrostatic manufacturing machine.

The wool coat is harder than cashmere so it can handle any style easily! 

相對羊絨,羊毛大衣的手感較粗糙,也較便宜,是市面上最常見的大衣材質。注意一下,羊毛的成分不要低於 50%,若低於 50% 就沒什麼保暖效果外,在乾燥的秋冬,他就成了靜電製造機啊

不過羊毛比羊絨硬,可以駕馭任何款式!就連廓形大衣也是可以的!

Wool coat didn’t have the effect of windproof and waterproof. So if you want to go abroad to a colder country or the place where will snowy, then wool coats should not be considered it.

Because the humidity in the snow is very high, the wool coat will be wet when you wear it in outside for a long time which the degree of warmth will drop a lot!

​​羊毛大衣「不防風、不防水」如果你是想要出國去到更寒冷的國家,或是會下雪的國家。羊毛大衣就要多考慮適不適合了,因為下雪天濕度很高,羊毛大衣在外穿久了會沾上濕氣,保暖度會下降許多的喔!

3. Alpaca coat

I believe not everyone knows about alpaca coat which like a stranger. Alpaca is one of the best natural fibers in the world which the alpaca is softer than cashmere and stronger and more beautiful than wool.

But not all alpaca hair is good quality. In haute fashion, it is strictly divided into second-class, third-class which it is a luxury material in fashion industry.

相對羊絨、羊毛大衣,羊駝毛大衣大家就對他比較陌生了!羊駝毛是世界上最棒的天然纖維之一,相較之下,羊駝毛比起羊絨更柔軟,比羊毛更強韌、漂亮

但並不是所有羊駝毛都是優質的,在高級女裝、時裝裡,它是被嚴格分成二等、三等的!簡單來說它被視為一種奢侈高級的物料

Alpaca has many advantages, including soft, lightweight, antistatic, shiny, anti-wrinkle, extremely soft, etc …

The alpaca is from the Andes Mountains of Peru, which it Living in an environment with the temperature varies much from day to night, the strong sunlight and cold winds which it have the effect of high waterproof and effective against solar radiation that it’s called sunscreen in the coat industry.

Briefly, the alpaca material is the first choice in the coat world, no wonder it’s called luxury materials.

羊駝毛有很多優點,包括保軟、輕便、抗靜電、有光澤、抗皺、極為柔軟、不扎皮膚…

更重要的是:因為他來自秘魯的安地斯山脈,在日夜溫差極大、陽光輻射強烈、寒風凜冽的環境下生活,所以讓他還有高防水、有效地抵禦日光輻射的兩大優點

羊駝大衣甚至被堪稱為:「大衣界的防曬霜」簡單來說:在大衣界裡,羊駝材質比起羊絨,他才是第一名!難怪他會被時裝裡列為「奢侈高級的物料」(希望未來也能入手一件羊駝大衣啊​)

In the market, the reason that you’re not easily to find alpaca coat easily is because the price is too high. That’s why you can see many alpaca scarf.

​不過也由於他的價格太高、產量少,所以市面上的羊駝大衣甚少看見。大多都是圍巾居多啊!(最近就是想要找羊駝的圍巾!)

4. Mohair coat

I believe not many people hear about the Mohair coat that it is comes from South Africa’s Angora goat; besides, it also known as the Angolan Goats Wool.

The special place is that it’s not as meticulous as cashmere and alpaca which it’s fiber is thicker, curly and short as a cashmere. So it’s flexible, comfortable and a little shiny. Moreover it’s not easy to get up the ball, easier to clean.

Note: you can dry clean and wash, but not use the laundering machine. Be sure to put into the laundry bag!

「馬海毛」相信大家對他也頗陌生,是來自南非的安哥拉山羊。也又稱「安哥拉山羊毛」

特別的地方是,他不像羊絨、羊駝毛一般的細緻,他的纖維較粗、捲曲小、跟羊絨一樣為短順毛風格,所以富有彈性、手感舒適,又有光澤!且他不易起球之外,更容易清洗呢(可以乾洗、水洗,但不宜用在洗衣機裡,快速攪動洗漱。一定要放入洗衣袋裡!)

The affinity of mohair for dyes is better than wool; therefore, it has better dyeability and the product is brightly colored.

​馬海毛對於染料的親和力,比起一般羊毛來得好,所以具有較佳的染色性,成品色彩鮮豔

The mohair coat has a disadvantage which it is easy to dirty that I suggest you can choose dark one.

​不過馬海毛大衣有個缺點:容易髒!所以建議在挑選顏色的時候,可以選深色的為主。

Generally, you can see more mohair sweater than mohair coat, that is because the mohair have an advantage, which is the hair length that makes it have higher warmth than wool sweater. Be carful that its hair will stick to the coat when you wearing it. If you want to wear mohair sweater, I suggest you can wear padded coat outside. 

一般來說馬海毛的針織衫比大衣來的多許多,因為毛長的優點,讓它比普通的針織衫的保暖性來得高!

不過我在穿馬海毛的針織衫時有發現一點,就是他外面再套上一件羊毛大衣的時候,他的毛會黏在大衣上啊。如果外面還想穿件外套的話,可以搭配羽絨外套,這樣他才不會沾黏在外套上

In addition, the girl who is plump girl is not recommended to choose mohair sweater, because you will be a little fat when you wearing it.

另外,微胖的女孩,不建議挑選馬海毛的毛衣,因為他超級顯胖!!前年冬天我有些發福,有次跟朋友相約時,就穿著馬海毛毛衣出門,結果跟朋友拍照時,變得超級無敵大隻!那次的經驗實在是令我印象深刻….

Basically, the materials are divided into these four. 

If you hear “water velvet”, “beaver”, etc. There are nothing to do with these animals, mostly a mixture of animal hair and chemical fiber which just like there are many different names in food!

​基本上質料分為這四種

如果你聽到什麼「水獺絨」、「海狸絨」等等,實際上跟這些動物沒有關係,大多都是動物毛和化學纖維的混合品,就好比食物裡有很多不同的名稱一樣喔!

those expensive coats except practical and good for style, the most important thing is to maintain it. Therefore, I am going to share some tips to maintain it.

​這貴桑桑的大衣,除了實用好搭之外,最重要的是要去保養它!如果不保養他,讓他整個變調了,不是很可惜嗎?

所以大家一定要對羊絨大衣進行保養,延長它的壽命啊!

5 tips to maintain the coat

1. Please hang with “hanger”

I believe I don’t need to say this, because the most of people will do it.

2. Use a special brush for the coat to remove dust

3. When wearing a coat, keep it dry.

4. If the coat is wrinkled, use the “Steam Iron” to adjust to the lowest temperature for ironing.

Do not to hurt the animal fiber and be carefully do not leave the ironing marks.

* If there is any smudge, I recommended to give the professional to cleaning it

5. After the season, put on the dust bag and hang it.

No matter what the coat of material is, I’m always take care of all my coats with five points. After all, a good coat can be wear for a long time.

 

1. 請用「衣架」掛起

這一點不用我多說,其實不只羊絨大衣,所有的大衣我都會用衣架掛起來

雖然羊絨大衣不易有折痕,但如果用折的方式收起,時間久了,他一定還是會有折痕啊

如果想要將摺痕用掉,還需要用熨斗來燙平,而且還需要小心

以免傷到大衣,整個程序不就挺麻煩的嗎?所以大家千萬不要用折的啊!

2. 用大衣專用的刷子,去除灰塵

3. 穿著大衣時,要保持乾燥,切勿沾水

4. 若大衣出現皺褶,可使用「蒸氣熨斗」調到最低溫,進行熨燙

但要小心傷到動物纖維,而留下熨燙痕跡

*如果有留下污跡的話,建議交給專業人士去乾洗

且他們都會幫你將大衣進行熨燙,拿回來就像新的一般(交給專業人士,絕對不會錯!)

「馬海毛」的服裝嚴禁熨燙喔,以免他的毛絨倒伏,光澤消失!

​我覺得不管是什麼材質的大衣,都要用這五點好好照顧

All of my coats that I bought it from four or five years ago, I still wear them now.

If you are considered to buy the coat that can be worn for a few years or the coat just wear one year. I strongly suggest that you should invest in a high-quality one, because it’s easy to match outfit and also is more warmth than others.

一件好的大衣真的可以穿超久!像我自己四、五年前買的大衣,到現在都還有再穿呢!如果你在猶豫到底要買「可以穿好幾年的大衣」還是「穿一年就壓箱底的大衣」?我的建議是:與其重看不重用的大衣,投資一件高品質的大衣比較好!因為一件高品質的大衣,雖然單價會高一些,但除了裡面可以簡單搭配外,保暖程度也很夠,有時候裡面你只要穿個薄薄的襯衫也行呢!此外,氣勢也會因大衣給襯托出來!

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