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Runway- FENDI FW Ready to Wear 2020-21

Fendi

After Lafayette Karl Lagerfeld was pass away, Chanel was immediately announce that Virginie Viard’s to taken the position as fashion director; however, he also has been a Fendi womenswear designer since 1965, which Fendi has changed the creative director to Silvia Venturini Fendi, following Karl Lagerfeld’s passing.

In this 2020 FW show, Silvia Venturini Fendi invited Paloma Elsesser and Jill Kortleve as a model to the show, which means it’s the first time that the ”plus size” model show up the runway. It seems that this action will start a discussion in the fashion industry! In addition, Silvia Venturini Fendi also invited senior supermodels to be a model at the catwalk, it’s totally breaking the age limit. Just like, telling everybody you still can be a model at the show, even you’re 38 years old. It’s not hard to see Silvia Venturini Fendi’s vision for the future, which she gonna take different action that you can’t image it.

在老佛爺 Karl Lagerfeld 逝世後,除了 Chanel 宣布 Virginie Viard 接任時尚總監的位置外,他從1965年起就接任的 Fendi 女裝設計師,也改由身為 Fendi 家族第三傳人的 Silvia Venturini Fendi 接任創意總監。

然而在這次的 2020 FW 大秀上,首度請「大尺碼」模特兒 Paloma Elsesser、Jill Kortleve 來走秀的創舉,當時我一看到照片時,還一度不相信自己的眼睛呢!看來這個舉動將在時尚界裡掀起一番的討論啊!此外 Silvia Venturini Fendi 也邀請了資深超模來走秀,破除了年齡的限制啊!不難看出 Silvia Venturini Fendi 的未來願景。

Initially started as a fur and leather boutique in Rome in 1925, the Fendi label has come to represent the finest of Italian style. With Silvia Venturini Fendi, the daughter of founders Adele and Edoardo Fendi, at the helm following Karl Lagerfeld’s passing, the latest women’s collection embodies femininity, elegant, style.  

In this collection, you can see lots of elements from different generation, such like shoulder pad from 80th, new look style from 50th, paisley printing from 70th, puff sleeve from 19th century etc. Even these elements from different generation, still matching. 

So I am going to share some points that I found in this collection.

1. Puff sleeve

2. Bustier Top

3. Belt with Decorations 

4. Different V-line

5. Yellow

6. Vintage printing.

7. Waist line

 
Fendi 最初於1925年在羅馬成立,最初是一家皮草和皮革精品店,如今已代表著意大利最好的風格。在Karl Lagerfeld 逝世後,創始人 Adele 和Edoardo Fendi 的女兒 Silvia Venturini Fendi 所掌舵,在這個最新的女裝系列,展現了豐富的女人味。此外,你能在這季作品中看到許多不同年代的元素,像是:80 年的墊肩、五零年代的New Look、七零年代的Paisley圖紋、19世紀維多利亞風格的蓬鬆袖型、二零年代的珠管流蘇,以及九零年代Madonna經典的內衣外穿,雖然年代橫跨的幅度很廣,卻又不會過度雜亂。
 
接下來,我將分享我在這個系列中發現的一些點。

1. Puff sleeve

My eyes could not be removed from the sleeve when the first model came out, also it made me change my previous impression of the puff sleeve. I don’t even know that the puff sleeve can be so masculine.

在第一個麻豆走出來時,我的目光無法從他的袖子上移開,讓我改變以往對他優雅的印象。也是讓我知道原來,泡泡袖居然也可以這麼有個性、帥氣!

One of the most popular puff sleeves in history is occurred the19th century and the high-waisted long skirts were also popular at that time . The puff sleeves were one of the classic shapes, which were regarded as feminine features on women’s clothes.

泡泡袖在歷史上較為著名的一次流行發生在19世紀初的帝政時期。當時流行的高腰長裙是小拋袖,泡泡袖是經典造型中的一種,在女裝上視為柔美的的特徵。

In this show, a lot of puff sleeves were used, that have completely different styles in different material. For example, on cashmere coats and corduroy blazer, it will look more handsome; on silk and lace, it is very temperament; on the leather, I feel it a little bulk. lol

Fendi 在這次的秀裡,大量的使用泡泡袖,在不同的款式、材質裡看到泡泡袖,有完全不一樣的風格。像是在羊絨大衣、燈芯絨西裝外套上,就會顯得較帥氣; 在絲質、蕾絲上,就很有氣質; 在皮質上我覺得有一點像機器人般的笨重 xd 

2. Bustier Top

Not exactly is the bustier top, but like bustier to emphasize bust line and show your femininity. I guess it would be the next fashion, just like back to the 18th century.

不完全是緊身胸衣,而是像強調胸圍線條的緊身胸衣並顯示出女性氣質,我想這將是下一種時尚。 就像回到18世紀一樣。

3. Belt with Decorations

Which part is the most elegant part of a female body? In my case, my answer is “waist”, because it can highlight your proportion. Also, the waist can also make your dress more distinctive than others. This is why you can see belts on my outfits. All I can say is the details are always hidden in the middle!

However, Fendi’s belt is different from the monotonous design in this season. It added some decorations to make the belt significantly and added some fun to the whole.

你認為女性身材裡最優雅的部分是哪裡呢?就我而言,我的答案是「腰部」因為腰部除了能凸顯你的比例外,也是能讓你的穿搭相較他人之外,較有特色。這也是為什麼在我的穿搭裡,常常能看到皮帶、腰帶的出沒,只能說細節永遠藏在魔鬼裡啊!

然而 Fendi  在這季的腰帶裡,有別於單調的設計,她加上了一些裝飾品,讓腰帶顯得更為明顯外,也讓整體添增了一些趣味。

4. different V-line

Except the waist line, I think the chest is also the best part of women. But in lots of design on the neck is always V-line. However, Fendi totally show the different design on this part, which using the U-line to do distinct matching with different material.

除了腰線,我認為胸部也是女性最美的部位。 但是在很多服飾的設計中,總是只能看到V領設計。 然而。芬迪在這部分上完全展示了不同的設計,他使用U字線條,對不同的材質進行獨特的匹配。

5. yellow.

Speaking of fall and winter, what color you will think about? you might thinking about black, gray, dark blue etc, definitely will not thinking about yellow. Yellow I might be think of it on spring, which I’m very surprise that it show up in FW.

說到秋冬,你會想到什麼顏色? 你可能會想到黑色,灰色,深藍色等,但絕對不會考慮到黃色。 黃色我可能會在春季想到它,所以它在 Fendi 的秋冬上出現我感到很驚訝。

6. Vintage printing.

In winter, your outfit can’t without the printing, which it one of important element in winter. In different printing, you can have different style, such as the leopard print is classical and the flower print is more femininity; furthermore, the color will change the style too.

在冬天,你的穿搭中不能沒有印花,也就是說印花在秋冬裡,永遠是很重要的元素。 在不同的印花中,有不同的風格,例如豹紋是經典的,而花朵則是女性化的; 此外,顏色也會改變樣式。

7. waist line

The one of point on this show, I think it’s waist line, which you can see the pointing 3 of belt with decorations that I wrote on the top. 

這個秀上的重點之一是腰線,你可以在第三點上看到原因。

My top 5 outfits of Fendi show

This one is very classical and elegant. The V-line design with shawl is perfect fit together! Also it have belt to emphasize the waist. However, I think the elbow length gloves is the point on this outfit, which is more elegant. Just like you back in 18th century.

這套是非常經典和優雅的。 披肩與V領設計完美的結合在一起! 且也有皮帶來強調腰部。 然而,我覺得這套的亮點在於肘部長度的手套,她讓人顯得更為優雅,就像回到18世紀的優雅。

All I can say in this one is very classical, femininity and style. I like this printing more than leopard print. lol

我只能說這套是非常經典、女性化和時尚的。而且,我個人比豹紋更喜歡這種印花。

I like this kinda bustier design on the blazer, showing the waistline very much, and using the belt with decorations to add highlights!

我很喜歡他在西裝外套上猶如馬甲的設計,非常地顯示腰線外,又利用有裝飾品的腰帶去增添亮點!

Before, I don’t know that the suit can be so perfect with faux fur, until now.

我之前不知道西裝能與人造皮草完美搭配。再利用金屬的皮帶去做點綴!我只能說超美!

The luxurious fur coat is quite imposing. Inside, The collar design of the dress, using lace to make a V-neck, which makes the overall imposing and elegant.

奢華的皮草外套,相當有氣勢外,裡頭裙子的領子設計,利用蕾絲去作微V領,讓整體有氣勢外又優雅!

kinda clumsy

Actually this one is nice, except for the sleeve part, which makes people look a bit like robot hands.

這套是非常有線條感的,除了袖子的部分,讓人看起來有點像機器手之外。

It seems like you gonna go to ride a motorcycle. lol

這套就像是你要去騎摩托車的套裝hahaha

She just like a robot. lol

太過堅硬的線條設計,讓人穿起來就更像一個機器人

too many details.

細節太多,造成反效果

Fendi 2020 FW series, it from pink tones to the neutral gray and black, and military-style leather coats with sexy soft lace coexist is perfectly together, which It’s totally amazing!

Silvia Fendi was asked by Vogue about the inclusive of nontraditional runway bodies in the show. “It’s liberating for me to portray these clothes in a different way, on different sizes. Especially because you talk to me and I am not really a prototype of that shape,” she said.

What do you think about this show?

Fendi 2020秋冬系列,從粉嫩的色調與中性的灰黑色,到軍裝風格的皮革大衣與性感柔美的蕾絲完美的共存在一起。完全令人驚艷呀!

Vogue 向 Silvia Fendi 訪問。她說:對我來說,以不同的方式,以不同的尺寸來描繪這些衣服是一種解放。特別是因為你與我交談,而並不是那種形狀的原型。

你對於這場秀有什麼想法呢?

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